Canadian Adventures (Part 2)

To continue with my Canadian adventures, there are several more wonderful experiences that must be shared.

The CN Tower, originally named after Canadian National railway company after it was completed in 1976, is a unique structure that really stands out in the Toronto skyline. As the world's tallest free-standing structure until 2010, it stands head and shoulders above everything else in Toronto, including some pretty big and shiny banks and office buildings. We decided to make use of this tower while it was still open, to see what all the fuss was about. We were just in time for the last ascent of the day, so we forked out $30 to go up the lift, which I thought was a bit steep (pun very much intended). 

Once we reached the viewing balcony (which is considerably lower than the actual top of the tower, given its unique shape), we soon found the glass floor section, which had sounded very adventurous indeed. It was a nice addition to the experience I must say, even if it was a small section at the side that was so heavily reinforced that not even a ton of bricks could have done much to compromise the smooth glass-like appearance. This may have dashed my adventurous hopes of feeling even a little at risk, but it made for some good photos of the city directly below us. The open-air balcony was also smothered in a mesh barrier which limited the view, but serves to save several lives a year I'm sure. The view itself was impressive, even at night, with the abundance of tall buildings in every direction fooling us into thinking that we weren't even that high up. Overall, I was glad I managed to get another attraction crossed off the list and see the great view from the top, so I would recommend it, even if it is a bit pricey at $30.

Looking down on the Rogers Centre

A night-time view of Toronto from the top

A bit of perspective as to how high it is!

The following day, we discovered the lovely and quaint Distillery district of Toronto, which seems to be a hotspot for wedding parties, judging by the dozen or so we came across! We then made our way to the harbour and boarded a ferry to Centre Island, one of a number of delightful additions to Toronto located in Lake Ontario. The view of the city from the ferry is nothing short of spectacular, as the bright sunshine on the water made for a lovely metallic haze of tall buildings in the distance. Centre Island itself is a very relaxed, family-oriented open space, ideal for picnics, barbecues and general chilling out. A beach was the last thing I expected to see in Toronto, but thanks to a vast lake bigger than many European countries and several crates of artificial sand, the illusion was created. We spent several hours soaking up the sun and paddling in what could easily have been the Irish Sea, just a much warmer version. Centre Island is a fantastic place to get away from it all, just minutes from bustling city life down-town, and I will definitely be back!

Toronto from Centre Island!

Centre Island beach!

A testament to just how nice Canadians are.

After a two hour delay at the bus station, we finally set off for Ottawa, the capital city of Canada. While in Europe, the seat of government tends to be located in the largest city, Canadians are very proud to house their federal representatives in this quiet and picturesque little city on the Ontario-Québec border. At roughly five and a half hours from Toronto, the differences couldn't be more noticeable. This contrast really hit home as I was taking a leisurely cycle along the canal, looking out at the lovely view of the quaint city, the sun beating down on my already sunburnt neck. While Toronto was full of tall and impressive buildings, the very tame nature of Ottawa's skyline served to highlight one of the main attractions, the very impressive parliament building. A country as large as Canada deserves an impressive seat of government no matter where it is located, and Ottawa provides this in abundance. The only competitor to this historic architectural masterpiece was Ottawa cathedral, a beautiful and grandiose church building located just a stone's throw away from the parliament entrance. 

The parliament building in Ottawa

Ottawa cathedral!

Ottawa truly came alive on the 1st of July, the day when Canadians everywhere celebrate their national holiday. I had absolutely no preconceived notions of what Canada Day would have in store for me, so I couldn't help being very pleasantly surprised. The authorities had shut down all of the main roads in the city for the day, as thousands of people, decked out in their finest red and white outfits, flocked to Parliament Hill for some very Canadian festivities. There was everything, from street performers to open air music and dance performances, that kept the flood of people coming and going all day. The main event was the big concert at 8 p.m. where the finest Canadian artists took to the stage to showcase their talents and all that was great about Canada. After what had been a very mixed day weather-wise, with intermittent torrential rain pausing the festivities earlier in the day, the concert was spared from downpours until the very end. Mariana's Trench, one of Canada's finest pop-rock groups, were busy engaging the young crowd when one of their songs climaxed in the most bizarre fashion. The big chorus at the end was accompanied by buckets of perfectly timed rain let loose from the heavens, completely drenching the onlookers, but adding a great deal to the party atmosphere. It was in this soaked but jubilant state that we were treated to a fireworks display over Parliament Hill and a rousing rendition of the national anthem, before the crowd dispersed to continue the party elsewhere. 

Canada Day!

The main stage on Parliament Hill

Mariana's Trench giving it loads

With some Mounties!

Canadian patriotism is a funny thing, as they seem completely content and massively proud of their country, even while recognising a foreign queen as their head of state. They simply don't seem bothered about the lingering colonialism that dominates many aspects of their lives, and have no desire to change the status quo. I found myself admiring this kind of peaceful patriotism, which is something I had never experienced before.

Ottawa's proximity to neighbouring Québec meant that a short ten minute walk across the Outtaouais river brought us into New France and the home of ridiculous French accents. At least French is what they call it. I would strongly support any movements for the recognition of Québécois as a completely different language. While my level of French would be quite decent for an English speaker, and having previously met some Québécois people elsewhere, I thought that I wouldn't have many problems. While comprehension was definitely achieved for the most part, the usual split-second delay I sometimes notice when interacting in France (in normal French, one could say), was replaced by a three to four second pause in Québec, while my brain frantically tried to piece together what had been said and rapidly concoct an adequate way to respond. 

Québec

One particular instance of this was when we were approached (or accosted, take your pick) by a Québécoise charity mugger*. While I admire the work they do for various charities and for raising awareness of issues, this particular experience was very intimidating. At home I have at least developed tactics to avoid these overly friendly individuals, including my engrossed telephone conversation face, speed-walking/running for an imaginary bus, or even very bluntly veering off dramatically to cross the nearest street available. But this time, I hadn't prepared. Not only had I not anticipated the sudden attention-grabbing techniques used, but when this was done in very fast, incomprehensible and loud Québecois, I didn't stand a chance. All I remember was a sudden onslaught of very loud, echoing noise, blood pounding in my ears and faces spinning before my eyes, as the voice screamed down a megaphone into my brain and I was trapped, unable to think, unable to breathe... ... until I managed to blurt out something that resembled (at least in my head) a feeble refusal based on nationality and tourist issues. A large Tim Horton's coffee, which I could order at my own pace, was required afterwards to calm my racing heart. But Québecois people are lovely, really. 

Sticking to French in Québec, none of this STOP nonsense

Between two provinces!

Despite spending only a few short hours discovering Montreal, I was very impressed by the character of the place. We managed to see the old town, the harbour, the St. Catherine district, as well as traipsing through the city looking for our very kind host for the night, (on the Rue St. Dominique, I might add) so we got a good taste of this very pleasant and friendly city. As one of the larger cities in Canada, as well as a very popular one, I would definitely return to spend longer in Montreal at some point in the future. Perhaps next time I'll have more time to explore Mont Royal itself, as well as the other delights this wonderful place has to offer. 

St. Catherine

Le Vieux Port de Montréal

I did, however, get more than I bargained for in Montreal, as Hurricane Arthur ensured that my flight, along with every single flight heading to the US, was cancelled. After a lot of waiting around, I was treated to a lovely hotel with a free meal and an incredibly comfortable bed, before dragging myself to the airport for 6 a.m. the following morning. I was finally Washington bound, and as you can imagine, my time in the US deserves an entirely different post.

Canadian cuisine deserves a final mention. While several delicacies were similar to products back home, with slight taste and flavour variations, there were several treats that were very typically Canadian. Beaver Tails are one example. I was unfamiliar with the shape of a beaver's tail, however these deliciously thick pastries, smothered with a variety of wonderful things including lemon, sugar and Nutella, ensured that I never looked at a beaver the same way again. 

One of many Beaver Tails outlets in Ottawa

Poutine, a French-Canadian speciality I had heard so much about, was never far away in both Ottawa and Montreal, but I was taken to a Poutinerie (yes, a restaurant dedicated to Poutine), for my first taste. The easiest way to describe this treat is to imagine a box of fries, smothered in gravy, accompanied by cheese curds gradually melting into the first two. Different toppings were available, including pulled pork, a kind of delicious stringy beef, which greatly added to the mixture. Poutine is hands down the single greatest food imaginable after a late night and a few too many beers. It is so tasty, but also very filling, so it serves as an adequate lunch too, if you forgive its enormous fat and grease content. I was pretty impressed by the food scene in Canada, and needless to say I ate quite well, thanks to some very generous portion sizes!

Unbelievable stuff.

Looking a bit sceptical the first time..

Canada, you were fantastic. Merci, thank you and à la prochaine!! (Au Québec, pronounced "uh luuh prowchaiiiyyne!!", or something, who even knows.) 

*an individual who works for a charity and attempts to sign people up for donations on the street, using a number of tactics, including being far too cheerful and pouncing on you as you walk down the street.

Canadian Adventures (Part 1)

During an action packed 10 days in Canada, I was lucky enough to sample some of what this wonderful country has to offer.

1) My first Canadian experience came a matter of minutes after landing, as I was whisked away to the nearest Tim Horton's coffee shop. This sacred Canadian institution soon became part of my daily routine, with Ice Capps (Iced Cappuccino) and Timbits (small, doughnut-esque treats) beginning my trip in the most unhealthy way imaginable. Prices were surprisingly cheap, when compared with Starbucks or any other hugely overpriced coffee establishment back home. The free WiFi was also very useful, as my phone had simply decided not to function on Canadian soil, which did little to reassure my loved ones at home that I had arrived safely. While I noticed a lack of the typical McDonalds and Starbucks colonisation of cities, the presence of  Mr. Tim Horton on many street corners proved an adequate replacement. At least it's Canadian, eh?

My first Ice Capp. The first of many.

2)  Canada's Wonderland was definitely a highlight of my Canadian experience. While there is nothing remotely Canadian about it, apart from the friendly workers and the abundance of Canadian flags, it is an absolute treat for thrill seekers and adrenaline junkies everywhere. With Disneyland Paris and sporadic fairground rides accounting for my thrill-seeking ventures to date, it seems I had a lot to learn. Wonderland is like Disneyland on steroids. We spent over nine hours in the park, going from ride to ride, our heads and stomachs feeling worse after each one, but it was so much fun. Definite highlights have to be Behemoth, once the largest rollercoaster in the park, and Leviathan, its replacement, which, with a drop of over 300 feet, is ranked the 5th tallest rollercoaster in the world. We also decided, quite recklessly, to try our hand at sky-flying, a type of bungee jump that sends you plummeting 150 feet towards solid concrete. No big deal. So, having experienced almost all of Wonderland's many delights, and having lowered our life expectancies considerably due to heart stress, we set off home, after a fantastic day. Only an hour from Toronto, Wonderland is exactly what it says in the tin, a land of wonder, and I would strongly recommend it to everyone. 

3) I recently spent the best $20 of my entire life. We made the trip down south to the US border, home of the majestic Niagara Falls. Standing or sitting on the promenade looking down on this natural beauty is one thing; taking a boat right up to the Falls is quite another. After several hours of relaxing in the sun, listening to the continuous roar of nearly 3,000 tonnes of water falling per minute, we decided to line up for this once in a lifetime experience. It was exactly that. The scorching heat, coupled with the constant spray, created the most beautiful and clear rainbows I have ever seen within the thundering Falls, and I found myself staring, dumbstruck, at the relentless power of nature. Compared with the tourist-filled, money-spinning town just a few hundred metres away, this was nature at its finest, outclassing by a clear mile any man-made structure or invention that will ever be.

4) Toronto, or as the locals call it "Tchraawno", is a really great city. Arriving on a Greyhound bus, the first thing that struck me were the tall buildings. While I am somewhat unused to this phenomenon, I believe that it was merely a small taste of the concrete monstrosities I will soon be straining my neck to see in New York. Despite Torontonians having a reputation among Canadians much like the Parisians in France, everyone we met was extremely helpful and nice, something I wasn't at all expecting from such a large city.

We wandered in some of the less frantic areas of Toronto, including Kensington, a really nice, artsy neighbourhood, home to some unusual international cuisine and impressive street art which gives the place a very cool and relaxed vibe. We then walked through the Asian quarter, which seemed to stretch forever, showing me just how multicultural and diverse Toronto is as a city.

While long, straight roads is something I touched on briefly with regards to the highways, cities with never-ending streets was not something I was accustomed to. Yonge Street in Toronto for example. I have never spent so long walking down the same street without getting anywhere. I soon discovered that simply telling people we were staying on Yonge was like saying that I liked the tree with the leaves. Once we managed to work out which of the many metro stops on Yonge to use, life got easier. 

5) One experience I will never forget was my very first baseball game! While it is usually associated with their American cousins further south, the Toronto Bluejays had qualified this year and were, as far as I know, the sole Canadian representative in the league. So, in true North American fashion, armed with a hot dog and a lot of newly acquired Bluejay enthusiasm, I took my seat up at the top of the bizarrely shaped stadium to watch the festivities unravel. "Festivities", I found, is quite an accurate description, as the game, which was very slow and dull for anyone less than passionate, was considerably livened by some extremely North American entertainment. We're talking cheerleaders, crowd participation games and competitions, parodies of the players, theme music for each batter, and even a section dedicated to the sand-sweeper guys who sprinted on to repair the pitch to its optimal state. It truly is a family day out, as the actual game becomes secondary to the fun everyone is having. The success of the home team does enhance the atmosphere however, and as the Bluejays fought back from 2-5 to 4-5 with one inning left, the match actually got quite tense. For someone who was clueless at the start, I became a true Bluejay by the end, egging on the players for one last effort to tie the game. They didn't unfortunately, but it seems there wasn't much at stake judging by everyone's apparent indifference to the result. 

One thing I have to mention is the players. My idea of a professional sportsperson, after over two decades of avid sport-watching, is an individual that is, yes, obscenely overpaid, but someone who is in good physical shape. They generally have to train in order to maintain this physique, but it usually pays dividends in their performance and somewhat justifies the money they earn. Not in baseball it seems. I was told that their swing is the most important aspect of their game, and while this may be true, watching an overweight player struggle to drag himself to first base really makes you wonder. I'm no baseball coach, but simple logic would surely suggest that fitter, faster players would result in a lot more players getting home, and therefore, better results.
Small criticisms aside, go Bluejays!! 

My Canadian adventures were so numerous that I feel a second post would be necessary in order to appreciate how great everything is, but this has been a taster of the many things to do in this fantastic place. I shall update again soon!

Ciao for now!

Canada - First Impressions

I've now spent a little over a week in the second largest country on planet earth, so here's what I think so far..

 

1) Canada is BIG. This particular fact hit home while I was still dozing in the somewhat cramped WestJet Boeing 737 that helped me begin my adventures. With a stop off in St. John's, Newfoundland, we were soon bundled onto the plane again for the final hop over to Toronto. After what seemed like hours, I looked down through the cloudless ether, assuming that the seemingly sparse landscape I was looking at was part of Québec perhaps, or an area much closer to my destination. But no, having glanced at my little aeroplane tracker on the screen in front of me, we had barely moved, still hovering over the Eastern-most point of the country, the land that had been newly found.

Upon arrival, I was brought to my next destination, the wonderful city of Cambridge, Ontario, where I learned a bit more about the size of this place. Originally thinking I would be staying in the outskirts of Toronto, I soon realised that I had grossly underestimated the size of the city and province that I was visiting. The cities surrounding Toronto were far from the satellite/commuter towns I have been used to back home and in Europe in general, with distances of minimum an hour drive between each place.

 

 

 

 

This puts a bit of perspective on my trip.
The area actually covered, after hours and hours of travel,
is marked quite humbly in red.
 

2) Another shock to the system was the abundance of highways. It's not merely their existence, but the nature of these monstrous roads that I find fascinating. They are as straight as arrows for kilometres on end, and with their enormous width and seemingly never-ending length, it's a wonder that North American drivers don't forget how the steering wheel works, as they simply don't need to use it very much. The variety of highway numbers, which can be a lot to take in at first are often only distinguished by a single letter, depending on the direction you are travelling. We suffered an extreme mishap in this regard, mistaking the 403W (West) with the 403E (East), which took us in a completely different direction for an hour or two. The system does make sense after a while, but until it clicks, don't be surprised if you end up taking the odd detour around Ontario.

 

I couldn't help contrasting these efficient, purpose-built highways with those I have experienced in Europe. While on a much smaller scale, European transport networks in many countries were evidently built as a response to population growth and expansion of previously existing urban centres, and as such, had to take into account the positioning of residential, historical and natural spaces. This might explain why they tend not to be as unashamedly direct and straight when linking A to B. The cities in the Greater Toronto Area that I visited also fitted nicely into this purpose-built image of life over here, as every amenity and service is provided for in an impeccably planned-out structure, clearly built in the last half century as part of a well-designed idea of quintessential urban life. This contrasts hugely with my previous idea of cities in Europe, which for the most part arose from either historical or geographical importance, evolving drastically over the centuries as their citizens adjusted to different ways of life. 

 

 

3) Canadians themselves without doubt deserve an entire paragraph. Stereotypes aside, they are all so NICE! So much so, that as a cynical Irish person, I couldn't help feeling slightly suspicious. I have never experienced better customer service in shops, restaurants and even in subway stations, and that's not to mention the average Canadian on the street, who has no qualms about striking up a conversation and offering help to confused tourists like myself. From friendly banter in restaurants and sincere welcomes, to looking out for tourists on the street, Canadians are a breath of fresh air. I also met a nice bouncer for the first time in my entire life. The words "nice" and "bouncer" are generally an oxymoron and look very bizarre in the same sentence, but this individual was incredibly accommodating to the young Irishman without his ID, for no apparent reason other than to be a nice person. My most recent point of reference being France, it wasn't too difficult for Canada to score highly in my "customer service and nice people" index, but I'm delighted to say that the people I've met so far have truly surpassed any expectations I had of stereotypical nice and polite Canadians. 

 

 

 

 

4) Canada is not cheap, by any stretch of the imagination. Considering the exchange rate between the Canadian Dollar and the Euro, life isn't too much more expensive than Dublin, or other higher-cost European cities, however as I watched my entire Canadian budget turning into my Toronto budget, I realised that everything adds up, quite dramatically. This brings me quite aptly to my next point, or rant, if you will, about my number one pet peeve about this part of the world - TAX. There are few feelings worse than knowing you have been deceived or betrayed, and in my first week in Canada, I have felt this pain on several occasions. What I'm alluding to, of course, is the 13% HST rate that is annoyingly added to every meal, ticket, or tube of toothpaste you purchase, thus rendering proper financial planning next to impossible. While the price does appear cheaper at first glance, this lower cost image is shattered as soon as you reach the check-out. Cashiers will look with pity upon your five dollar bill when paying for an item marked at 4.95, as a simple press of a button brings that to 5.60, thank you very much. Canada, please sort this out.

 

In keeping with the money theme - plastic money!! It's quite strange at first but I've grown to like it, and it does make sense, as I discovered recently after a very heavy downpour that would have rendered my Euro notes completely redundant. There are several practical disadvantages, including the fact that it is impossible to un-fold after its original shape has been compromised, but as a tourist with little need to consider such practicalities, it gets a thumbs-up from me.

 

 

5) Among the many things I noticed about Canada, the level of patriotism definitely deserves a mention. A large number of houses in standard residential areas have a Canadian flag flying proudly from the roof, while in the cities themselves, the abundance of flags on everything is quite remarkable. While Canada Day was approaching when I arrived, I was told that such signs of patriotism were commonplace throughout the year, as everyone is intensely proud of being Canadian. Attending the Canada Day festivities in the capital, Ottawa, majorly reinforced this observation, as I was treated to the best of the best of everything Canadian, including a spontaneous and rousing rendition of “Oh Canada!” during a very impressive fireworks display. I haven't noticed the same level of patriotism anywhere in Europe, possibly due to the fine line between patriotism and nationalism, the latter invoking a less desirable image in the history of many European countries. 

The level of patriotism in one particular neighbourhood.
I think we can all agree, no matter how great Canada is,
this is a bit ridiculous.

 

 

It has been an action packed week, and all the wonderful places I've been lucky enough to see will be documented in the next entry! To conclude, my first impressions of Canada have been overwhelmingly positive and it's unsurprising already why so many people from all over the world are proud to call it home.

 

à bientôt !